Cheung Chau Island has long been one of Hong Kong most popular island retreats. Smaller than Lantau but bigger than nearby Peng Chau, Cheung Chau offers more to do than clamber around on rocks and play castaway but is still several gears down from the bullet pace of the city.For many Cheung Chau attraction is as much to do with its no nonsense, traditional village lifestyle as the sea and the sand. And, while the island 20,000 plus residents have long since tucked into the benefits of tourism, the village has lost none of its charm. This is a world away from the suits and skyscrapers of Central. Fishing boats still ply the harbour if in declining numbers while the waterfront Praya bustles to family run grocery shops, clicking mahjong tiles and in a nod to tourism waiters mopping down plastic chairs and tables for the evening rush.